In a word WOW!
This is probably what everyone who sells anything says. Well-worn words like quality mean less every day that capitalism exists. For a moment, forget I am making up for not buying great Peruvian coffee over the last 25 years. This coffee is exciting because it has been imaginatively processed, by a forward-thinking coffee producer. I have spent quite some time brewing this coffee and all of the results have been interesting, in a delicious way. I am downplaying my tasting results as I fear this coffee may be hard to acquire in the years to come.
Farm name: Aladino
Owners; Aladino Delgado Perez and Rosa Burga Vasquez
Farm size: 14 Hectares
Altitude farm: 1870-2100 meters above sea level.
Varietals: Caturra and Tabi
Process: 96 hours of semi-carbonic fermentation: when the cherries were picked, they were floated in a water tank to separate the floaters, and then the cherries were macerated without any water for 4 days (96 hours) in a closed tank. After that the coffee was de-pulped, washed, and put to dry immediately (so no more fermentation in parchment). Drying: Dried in a solar dryer for 20-25 days
Temperature: Approx. 20-25° Celsius during the day and 10-12° Celsius at night
Soils: Loamy clay, with an arable layer of 30 to 40 cm deep, presence of gravel, pH neutral, and presence of an abundance of organic matter.
Main Harvest period: Mid-July to Mid- October.
Aromatics: Ripe, fruity, tangy | Body: medium | Acidity: Soft and low, building to apple and grapefruit|
From the get-go, this coffee is deep, ripe, and sweet. The fruit is plummy and red grape-like with hints of dry spice. Just (once again) when you thought this might become chocolatey, there is a sherbet-like sweetness and the beginnings of citrus on cooling. The more the coffee cools, the more flavour unravels. It just keeps on coming. Brown (tropical) sugars, red fruit, citrus, caramel, repeat. The longer you leave this, the riper and more tropical it becomes, alongside apple juice and grapefruit. It feels like such a journey to get to the cup cooling and it feels worth every second. Unlike other carbonic coffees, this is not all about weirdness in a cup. This is more balanced and all about the fruit.
V60: This is very rewarding in V60, but doesn’t offer me what full immersion can.
Espresso: This is extractable in espresso. It can be great in milk too, however. For me, this is so good and so complex in a filter, that it lost much of its subtlety in espresso.
Roast level: Medium Filter.
Aladino and Rosa. The name of this micro-lot could also be that of a fairytale, and the location of their farm is definitely magical. Only a couple of years ago, Aladino and his father Urbano Delgado started to plant the coffee
varieties on their farm of which they heard that the best specialty coffee producers in the region were growing; Caturra and Tabi. In 2002, CENICAFE in Colombia introduced the Tabi cultivar: it is a hybrid of Bourbon, Typica, and Timor. One of the most important attributes is its resistance to coffee leaf rust, but it also displays the good cup quality characteristics of its Bourbon and Typica parents. Fun fact is that ‘Tabi’ means “good” in the Guambiano language, spoken by the Guambiano indigenous people. The farm is simply called ‘Finca Aladino’ because friends and family who would visit him would say ‘vamos a la finca de Aladino’, ‘let’s go to Aladino’s farm.’ “And we just keep using that name”, he explains. Aladino then tells that he is the second-generation coffee farmer on the land. Previously, a certain part of the farm belonged to his late father, who left him inherited a bit of land. But his father was also the person that gave him a base of knowledge of coffee cultivation. And thanks to that knowledge and his growing passion he got opportunities that he could never have dreamed of: visiting other countries such as the United States and Japan. But Aladino has not stopped learning, he aims to improve his process every day. As you can taste, he loves to experiment with fermentation techniques as well. And this has given him some very interesting results.